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TALES FROM HISTORY

Sazaedō — The Unique Spiral Temple of Aizu, Japan

The only double-helix wooden structure in the world

Diane Neill Tincher

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Hexagonal, 3 story, old wooden building, with intricate dragon and other carvings, as well as a brass gong above the entrance. Its roof extends out, showing the wooden beams beneath.
Entrance to the Sazaedō. (All photos ©Diane Tincher)

Nestled on a hillside overlooking the small city of Aizuwakamatsu in Fukushima Prefecture is an extraordinary shrine. Constructed in 1796, this architectural marvel bears the official name Entsu Sansōdō, 円通三匝堂, which translates to “the temple of three turns around.”

Above the entrance of this entirely wooden structure, an intricately carved dark lintel showcases two lighter-colored dragons entwined as protectors of this sacred space. But that remarkable sight pales in comparison to the building itself.

Sazedō’s unique architecture

Upon entering the building, visitors turn left and begin an uphill climb. The interior reveals a continuous ramp winding its way up, before passing over an arched bridge, and then descending back down. This unique double-helix design earned the shrine its popular name, Sazaedō. Sazae means spiral turban shell, and refers to temple or shrine.

Side view of the Sazaedō showing its spiral, 3 storey construction. The roof overhangs, and the entrance extends out from the left.
Sazaedō with its tilted windows and eaves.

The windows and eaves follow the incline of the ramps, tracing the spiraling path upwards and downwards. The sloping walkway maintains an unbroken course without any overlaps.

Remarkably, Sazaedō’s design did not come from the genius of an architect but rather from the ingenuity of the head priest of the nearby Shōsōji Temple, Ikudō, whose statue graces the entrance of the shrine.

Inside the entrance to the Sazaedō. Statue of the Zen monk, Ikudō.

The exact source of his inspiration remains a mystery. It is believed that renewed access to Western books in 1720, thanks to Tokugawa Yoshimune lifting a long-standing ban, provided Ikudō with valuable scientific knowledge that likely influenced his design. Some speculate that he may have seen drawings of Leonardo da Vinci’s double-helix staircase at Château de Chambord in France, but there is no way to know.

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